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When Tissot released the Sideral S in 2023, it was love at first sight. An accessible watch with an unusual case shape, crafted from pioneering materials, dressed in bold colors, and equipped with a special function for sea and sailing enthusiasts. Some may have considered it too daring, but it was executed so perfectly that it remained etched in my memory. I felt the exact same spark again this year, when I first encountered the three Swiss watches I present below. Their design struck me immediately, especially their geometric dials, made striking through the interplay of three, sometimes even four, contrasting colors. Equally fascinating was that each one belongs to a completely different watch category in terms of function and use. The first is a chronograph, the second a diver, the third a worldtimer, and the fourth is the Sideral S with its regatta countdown.
They are not for everyone, but for the bold, the slightly eccentric, and the passionate lovers of design and geometry. Certainly not for those searching for their very first mechanical watch. To them I would recommend something simpler, more timeless. But all four are, in my opinion, excellent second or third additions to a collection. Perfect for grey days that need color, for moods in need of a boost, or simply to accompany our summer adventures, both on land and at sea…
I first saw it last April, when I visited Breitling at a central Geneva hotel to discover the brand’s new releases for 2025. And although the entire Top Time collection has impressive new additions, this particular chronograph has something that instantly drew me in. Most likely it is the combination of its retro cushion-shaped case and its racing-inspired dial in the legendary Martini Racing colors: white with the unmistakable blue, light blue, and red stripes. It features a clear tachymeter scale and two unusual “squircle” subdials – a blend of square and circle – placed within an elliptical blue background reminiscent of classic racing car dashboards. This design, after all, was also present in historic Top Time models from the 1960s.
The Top Time Martini Racing chronograph is crafted in steel, 38 mm in diameter, paired with a perforated leather strap, and powered by a formidable engine: the Manufacture Caliber 01, Breitling’s flagship automatic movement, COSC-certified and boasting 70 hours of power reserve. It is a limited edition of 750 pieces.
The 1960s were an exhilarating time: new technologies, pioneering materials, bold design, and an entirely fresh aesthetic were reshaping everything. It was the era when the Space Race was at full speed, when Concorde made its maiden test flight, and when Verner Panton unveiled his iconic chair, sculpted from a single piece of plastic. Girard-Perregaux was no exception, launching the Deep Diver ref. 9108. It featured a cushion-shaped case, a 14-facet bezel, a striking red dial, and the movement incorporated the innovative Gyromatic system. The model’s case design would later inspire the distinctive geometry of the now-iconic Laureato.
The modern-day descendant of that Deep Diver was created in collaboration with the Bamford Watch Department, a leading name in custom watchmaking. Crafted from robust yet lightweight grade 5 titanium, the case measures 40.3 x 38 mm, while the dial bursts with pop-inspired colors (orange, blue, and white), remaining faithful to the 1971 edition.
Like the original, the new Deep Diver features two crowns: the one at 2 o’clock controls the internal rotating dive bezel. Water-resistant to 200 meters, it comes with a blue rubber strap, along with an extra orange one, easily interchangeable thanks to Girard-Perregaux’s quick-release system that requires no special tool.
This watch speaks to modern travelers and explorers, blending mechanical precision with irresistible retro charm. Inspired by a 1970s Mido model, it stands out with its silver velvet-textured dial and the bold red-and-black checkered motif, echoing the daring design spirit of that era. The vintage MIDO logo and the hefty square-shaped sapphire “glassbox” crystal further amplify its nostalgic character.
Housed in a 40.5 mm stainless steel case, it features a unidirectional rotating bezel with city names corresponding to the world’s time zones. Water-resistant to 200 meters, it offers not only world time but also a dual day-and-date display at 3 o’clock.
Inside beats the automatic Caliber 80, equipped with a Nivachron™ balance spring, providing up to 80 hours of power reserve along with impressive resistance to magnetic fields and shocks. The Ocean Star Worldtimer comes with a distinctive two-part black leather “Bund”-style strap, accented with red and white stitching, a nod to pilot’s watches of decades past.
Could anyone believe that this watch was first conceived over half a century ago? And in an era dominated by small, classic, mostly gold dress watches? Unbelievable, yet true. The Sideral S by Tissot is the rebirth of an emblematic model that reminds us of the brand’s rich heritage and the treasures hidden in its archives. The original Sideral, the world’s first fiberglass-cased watch, was both light and sturdy, with an avant-garde design, a bright yellow rubber strap, and an innovative fastening system. It thrived during the 1970s, winning the hearts of sports enthusiasts and fans of unconventional design.
Its modern heir retains the spirit of the original, though its case is now made of forged carbon fibers with irregular patterns, making each piece unique. Measuring 41 mm, the case comes with a black PVD rotating dive bezel featuring regatta countdown markings, sapphire crystals front and back, and 300-meter water resistance. The Sideral S is available in three vivid colors – yellow, red, and blue – paired with matching perforated rubber straps secured by an innovative fastening system, with additional strap options in green, orange, or black. At its heart beats the Powermatic 80 Nivachron automatic movement, offering 80 hours of power reserve. With striking design, advanced materials, and a technically robust movement, the Tissot Sideral S has all it takes to become the ultimate summer companion.
