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What’s the first thing that comes to mind when you hear the name Bvlgari? In recent years, two words pop into my head: Octo Finissimo. The ultra-thin collection that broke the mold and set a new norm in watchmaking, both in avant-garde design and in movements that keep getting thinner without sacrificing robustness, complexity, or mechanical reliability. Against the doubts and the early critics, the Octo Finissimo line didn’t just survive its debut in the watchmaking universe 11 years ago; it has truly excelled, smashing one record after another and astonishing everyone. It brought to the forefront of haute horlogerie a house that was certainly famous, but mainly for its high jewelry creations and its jeweled women’s watches. This brilliant Octo Finissimo journey was honored by Bvlgari at this year’s Geneva Watch Days 2025 with a retrospective exhibition that gathered all of its ultra-thin models in one place.
Geneva Watch Days, with a more open to the public and relaxed format, was born on the shores of Lake Geneva in 2020 at the initiative of Jean-Christophe Babin, Bvlgari’s CEO and head of LVMH’s watch division. The idea was to approach contemporary watchmaking with a fresher perspective. As Mr. Babin, who also serves as President of Geneva Watch Days, puts it: “ This event was born from a desire to rethink the way the industry connects – more agile, more inclusive, and more collaborative. Five years on, it has become a key rendez-vous on the horological calendar, not just for well-known brands, but for a growing number of independent players as well .” Bvlgari is one of the anchor maisons that participate every year, presenting standout creations.
After 10 world records in just 11 years, a retrospective on the Octo Finissimo was both logical and expected. During Geneva Watch Days, visitors could trace the collection’s thread from its 2014 debut to the present, and to the most recent record for the world’s thinnest tourbillon: the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, unveiled in April 2025 at Watches and Wonders, with a case only 1.85 mm thick!
But beyond the already famous Octo Finissimo pieces that rewrote the rules of thinness, Bvlgari also introduced two fresh additions to the family, each extraordinary in its own right: the Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bvlgari – a collaboration with the South Korean artist Lee Ufan – and the Octo Finissimo Marble Tourbillon with a dial cut from deep-blue Italian marble.
Philosophy and art in a single watch. The hardness of a rock set against the sheen and reflections of a mirror. Bvlgari collaborated with South Korean artist Lee Ufan, and the result is the Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan, a small wearable work of art.
This is a limited edition of 150 pieces with a 40 mm titanium case and titanium bracelet, whose surface has been hand-worked by the artist to achieve that intriguing “hard” texture.
The dial is minimalism distilled, with a mirror effect that moves from light grey to black, ideally framed by a smooth steel bezel with polished and sunray-finished surfaces.
Inside beats the ultra-thin BVL 138 with a 60-hour power reserve, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. The movement is just 2.23 mm thick, while the watch’s overall thickness is 5.5 mm. A rare model that unites watchmaking with contemporary art, the Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan is sure to be prized by collectors worldwide. The price? Expect at least €22,000.
If you’ve been following the watch world, you probably remember the Octo Finissimo “Verde Alpi,” a yellow-gold tourbillon with a green marble dial that was launched earlier this year. Marble, beautiful as it is, is rarely seen in watchmaking: it’s quite heavy, extremely fragile, and practically impossible to process at the miniature scale of a wristwatch. But Bvlgari has always pushed material boundaries and wasn’t deterred in the slightest.
The new Octo Finissimo Marble Tourbillon shown at Geneva Watch Days features a 40 mm platinum case just 5.35 mm thick and a dial of blue Italian marble. This true work of art houses the ultra-thin hand-wound BVL 268 with tourbillon and a 52-hour power reserve. Italian artistic heritage meets Swiss know-how in a watch limited to just 30 collectible pieces. Unsurprisingly, the price matches the achievement, well north of €104,000.
