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Geneva Watch Days has now established itself as the most open and friendly watch fair. Held in Geneva, it hosts key market “players” who show their creations and talk with journalists and the public in a more relaxed, “informal” atmosphere. If we have one overarching takeaway from the 2025 edition – the sixth since the event began – it’s that the “usual suspects” of Swiss watchmaking did not stick to safe choices, but unveiled watches that impress through materials, technical solutions and design. Color, bold ideas and stylistic originality take center stage. For instance, Bvlgari enriches the avant-garde aesthetics of the Octo Finissimo and Bvlgari Bvlgari collections with marble and bronze respectively, while Breitling celebrates the start of its partnership with American football via the NFL Editions. TAG Heuer doubles down on cutting-edge tech with two TH-Carbonspring models and a striking rethinking of the moon-phase display. Zenith colors our lives with the DEFY Chronograph USM in four shades, and Ulysse Nardin serves up a wholly different take on the legendary Freak. Oris blends color with a high-spec in-house caliber and teams up with Bamford. Frederique Constant walks classic yet complicated paths with success, Favre Leuba indulges in mechanical revelations, and Gerald Charles adds precious chromatic touches to the Masterlink collection. Finally Alpina, Doxa και Maurice Lacroix offer truly compelling options in the sport-watch category. What follows are brand-new models from familiar names, each excellent in its field. They’re presented by brand, in alphabetical order…
Alpina refreshes its Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic dive line with a model carrying vintage cues in its design. What sets it apart is the green-khaki dial with a sandblasted texture, on which the large hands and markers “read” perfectly – everything coated in vintage beige Super-LumiNova. It features a 39 mm cushion-shaped stainless-steel case, a unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel, and water-resistance to 300 meters as a dependable tool for the depths. Inside beats the automatic AL-525 movement with a 38-hour power reserve.
We’ve already covered Breitling’s collaboration with American football and the two new collections created for the occasion. The Chronomat GMT 40 NFL Editions line has a 40 mm stainless-steel case, water-resistant to 200 meters, and an in-house Breitling Caliber 32 with chronometer certification and a 42-hour power reserve. It offers a GMT function, and each model comes in the colors of – and bears the logo of – the NFL’s 32 teams on the dial and caseback. The second line consists of the Endurance Pro 44 NFL Editions chronographs, likewise aimed at die-hard fans who want to carry a piece of the sport’s passion on the wrist. Both series enjoyed a moment in the spotlight at this year’s Geneva Watch Days.
Bvlgari brought plenty of interest to Geneva Watch Days, with bold, avant-garde design as the central theme. First, the Bvlgari Bvlgari collection gained two bronze-cased models. The Bvlgari Bronzo GMT and Bvlgari Bronzo Chronograph feature bronze cases measuring 40 and 41 millimeters, respectively, a metal that will develop a unique patina over time. Both have Bvlgari in-house movements and sport a black rubber bezel that pairs perfectly with the dial tone and the articulated strap made of rubber and bronze.
Φιλοσοφία και τέχνη σε ένα ρολόι. Η σκληρότητα ενός βράχου σε αντιπαράθεση με τη στιλπνότητα και τις αντανακλάσεις ενός καθρέφτη. Ο οίκος Bvlgari συνεργάστηκε με τον Νοτιοκορεάτη καλλιτέχνη Lee Ufan και καρπός αυτής της συνεργασίας είναι το Octo Finissimo Se Le Ufan, ένα μικρό έργο τέχνης που φοριέται στον καρπό σε limited edition 150 κομματιών.
A superb example of high watchmaking, the new Octo Finissimo Marble Tourbillon features a 40-millimeter platinum case and a dial of blue Italian marble. Marble is rarely used because it’s extremely fragile, yet Bvlgari is undaunted by such constraints.
Geneva Watch Days saw the return of the SUB 750T, a high-spec Doxa model first launched in 2002. As a true deep-diver’s watch, it packs all the traits that make it a “professional tool.” It has a 45 mm stainless-steel case fitted with a helium-escape valve, is guaranteed water-resistant to 750 meters, features a unidirectional diving bezel, and a highly legible dial with hands and hour markers coated in Super-Luminova for optimal visibility in the darkness of the deep. Its automatic Swiss movement offers a 56-hour power reserve. The SUB 750T comes in several dial colors and pairs with either a steel bracelet or a rubber strap. It is expected at retailers in mid-October.
This is the first skeleton watch in Favre Leuba’s history. And what a history – 288 years! The Chief Skeleton sits in a 40 mm cushion-style stainless-steel case, 11.76 mm thick, whose ergonomic shape hugs any wrist perfectly. The watch’s undeniable strength is its skeletonized dial, offering an unobstructed view of the automatic, meticulously executed movement with its exposed balance wheel at 6. What impresses is how modern the aesthetic is, with minimal lines and immaculate finishing. The Chief Skeleton comes in two versions. The first combines a steel case with a gold-tone movement and a minute track in green, blue or black, matched to a rubber strap. The second features a black DLC steel case with a dark gray movement and a minute track in blue, green, black or light blue, plus a tone-on-tone rubber strap.
Modern yet timeless. Nicely judged details and careful construction. Equally at home on men’s and women’s wrists, with a very respectable movement within. Frederique Constant keeps doubling down on attainable luxury, proving it convincingly with the new Classics Premiere models. They feature a 38.50 mm stainless-steel case and a sector-type dial (divided into concentric circles for different sectors). Equally handsome in blue or salmon, with distinctive applied Arabic numerals and Breguet-style hands, these are elegant watches with an Art Deco spirit that will age gracefully. Added value comes from the glassbox-style display crystal on the caseback, which creates a magnifying effect. Thanks to it, you can admire the fine Côtes de Genève finishing on La Joux-Perret’s automatic G100 caliber.
The perpetual calendar is among the most complex functions in watchmaking, automatically accounting for the date every day of the year, even in leap years. Few brands can build such mechanisms, hence most perpetual calendars out there cost many tens of thousands of euros. Frederique Constant, however, offers one of the market’s most accessible takes. At Geneva Watch Days 2025 it unveiled three fresh 40 mm versions of the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture: two in steel with blue or silver dials, plus a more luxurious third in 18K yellow gold with a black onyx dial. All three are powered by the brand-new automatic FC-776, the 34th in-house caliber developed at Frederique Constant’s Geneva manufacture, delivering 72 hours – three full days – of power reserve.
Gerald Charles presented three precious iterations of the ultra-slim Masterlink, the first gem-set pieces in this collection. Each is a limited series of 10, with a 38 mm case just 7.99 mm thick and an integrated stainless-steel bracelet. The distinctively shaped bezel, crafted in 18K white gold, is adorned with 60 baguette-cut gemstones: blue sapphires, red sapphires, or green tsavorites. Thirteen additional baguette stones mark the hours on the silver dial with vertical stripes. Both case and bracelet are made entirely in-house by Gerald Charles. Inside is the immaculately finished automatic Manufacture 1.0 caliber, featuring an ultra-thin micro-rotor and 50 hours of power reserve.
Back in 2016, Maurice Lacroix introduced the Aikon, an urban watch that has since become the brand’s best-seller. Nearly a decade later it returns with a new collection that resembles Aikon but stands out for cutting-edge technologies and innovative materials. The AIKONIC models sport carbon dials unlike anything we’ve seen: the carbon fibers are set vertically in parallel, appearing as gray and black stripes, and because the fiber layout varies slightly in the process, each dial is unique. The 43 mm case is stainless steel, paired with a brushed and polished ceramic bezel and sandblasted “claws” in blue, black or white. A sapphire caseback reveals the new automatic ML1000 movement with a 60-hour power reserve.
Mint-green with pink-fuchsia? Indeed. As unexpected as the combo seems, here it proves delightful and successful. And while the dial of this steel watch is striking, that’s not its main ace. The emblematic Big Crown is endowed with Calibre 113, an Oris manufacture hand-wound movement boasting a ten-day (240-hour) power reserve and a full business calendar, with date, month and week-of-the-year displays. Specifically, there’s a scale from 1 to 52 around the dial’s periphery and a central hand indicating the current week. Best of all? All indications are set via a single crown. The eye-catching dial also hosts two subdials: small seconds at 9 and Oris’s patented, non-linear power-reserve indicator at 3. Who says mechanical watchmaking must be serious and dull?
Oris’s second, equally exciting September release is a collaboration with Bamford Watch Department, a firm specializing in customization. The watch is based on the Oris ProPilot Altimeter, the only timepiece in the world housing a Swiss automatic mechanical movement with a mechanical altimeter. The new ProPilot Altimeter Mission Control’s case measures 47 mm across, 16.7 mm thick, and is crafted from a single block of carbon-fiber-reinforced composite. It features a gray PVD titanium bezel, a black dial with yellow, lime and red accents, and is powered by the automatic Oris 793 with a 56-hour power reserve. It’s a limited edition of 250. A statement watch with aviation genes and distinctive design, just as Bamford has taught us to expect.
TAG Heuer managed once again to impress us at Geneva Watch Days. The Swiss brand unfurled its deep know-how and innovative spirit by launching the TH-Carbonspring oscillator, and fitting two new chronographs with it. It’s a groundbreaking system that shifts watchmaking’s goalposts, offering antimagnetic protection and shock resistance; and because it’s made of carbon (a low-density material), the hairspring has less mass and lower inertia, thus delivering striking accuracy and timing performance. Ten years of research and testing were needed to reach the final result. TAG Heuer has filed four patent applications for this revolutionary new technology.
The first two watches to carry the new TH-Carbonspring in their movements are chronographs: the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH–Carbonspring. They are equipped with the automatic Calibre TH20-60 and Calibre TH20-61 respectively, both COSC-certified chronometers. Their black cases, bezels, crowns and pushers are all made from forged carbon, as are the dials, which are engraved with a spiral motif. They come on black rubber straps and are water-resistant to 100 meters. The Monaco is expected at retail in December 2025, while the Carrera will arrive in the first quarter of 2026. Both watches will be issued in two limited series of 50 pieces each.
TAG Heuer’s second big news proves its creativity and mechanical prowess, proposing an original moon-phase display. The new Carrera Astronomer draws inspiration from the historic 1962 Friendship 7 space mission, during which astronaut John Glenn wore a specially modified Heuer stopwatch on his wrist. He needed a precision instrument as his spacecraft completed three orbits around Earth. The Carrera Astronomer is stainless steel, with a 39 mm case, and inside it houses the new Calibre 7 mechanical movement with a pioneering moon-phase readout. Specifically, at the lower part of the dial a rotating disc depicts seven phases of the Moon; two fine arrows indicate both the current phase and the Moon’s position along its 29.5-day cycle. And it does so with scientific precision. Each day at 1 a.m., the lunar disc advances in perfect step with the real motion of the Moon. The Carrera Astronomer comes in three versions: the model with black dial accents is not limited, while the other two are limited editions of 500 pieces.
Ulysse Nardin’s Freak is among the most avant-garde watches ever created, and remarkably, it stays fresh and modern despite its age. Born in 2001, it is the most complex “time-only” watch out there. No hands, no dial, no crown. Its innovation lies in the fact that the movement itself rotates to tell the time. The latest iteration, the Freak X Crystalium, proves equally pioneering and even more spectacular. Its 43 mm titanium case with black DLC coating frames a “dial” of crystalium, a ruthenium-based material that acquires its unique, futuristic appearance through a slow, controlled crystallization process. The in-house UN-230 movement offers a 72-hour power reserve. Production is limited to just 50 numbered pieces.
Zenith, in collaboration with USM Modular Furniture, created four DEFY chronographs with a ’60s-tinged vintage aesthetic and dials in the four punchy colors of the Swiss modular-furniture company: orange, green, yellow and blue. The DEFY Chronograph USM models feature a 37 mm stainless-steel case with a 14-sided bezel and a stainless-steel “ladder” bracelet. A playful detail on the dial: the central chronograph seconds hand ends in a small metallic sphere, like the connector balls used in USM furniture. Powering the chronographs is the automatic El Primero 400, beating at 5 Hz with a silicon escape wheel and lever, and offering a 55-hour power reserve. These are limited editions – 60 pieces per color – sold either individually or as a set in a collectible USM presentation case, available through Zenith’s exclusive boutiques and selected retailers worldwide.
