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If you thought Bulgari would rest on its laurels after nine world records in ultra-thin watchmaking, you were sorely mistaken. Just last year, the brand unveiled the world’s thinnest automatic chronometer-certified watch, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. And now, it claims its tenth consecutive record with the world’s thinnest tourbillon. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon made its triumphant debut at the Watches & Wonders fair in Geneva this April.
I still remember when the Octo Finissimo collection was first introduced in 2014. I was at Baselworld, and everyone was talking about Bulgari’s bold new concept: an ultra-thin, octagonal sports watch with a minimalist look and an integrated strap so thin it wrapped around the wrist like a featherlight bracelet. It was the slender evolution of the Octo model presented the previous year and was considered by many as an eccentric idea unlikely to have a lasting impact.
But it seems the vision of Bulgari’s team was crystal clear from the start — we just hadn’t realized it yet. The Octo Finissimo journey had only just begun, and so had the parade of records that would follow year after year.
The world’s thinnest manually-wound flying tourbillon, featuring a platinum case and the hand-wound caliber BVL 268, measuring just 1.95 mm thick!
The world’s thinnest minute repeater, housed in a titanium case and powered by the ultra-thin BVL 362 movement, only 3.12 mm thick. The dial was specially engineered with cut-out hour markers to allow the sound to pass through and amplify.
Bulgari’s third world record: the thinnest automatic watch on the market, with a case thickness of 5.15 mm and a movement measuring only 2.23 mm. The BVL 138 caliber is housed in a 40 mm case.
The world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon. Its automatic movement, the BVL 288 caliber, features a peripheral rotor, offering an unobstructed view of the movement. The case is just 3.95 mm thick!
The thinnest mechanical chronograph in watchmaking history. The integrated BVL 318 chronograph movement is only 3.3 mm thick and includes a peripheral rotor and dual time zone function.
The thinnest automatic skeleton chronograph with tourbillon. Measuring only 3.5 mm in thickness, this watch marked Bulgari’s sixth world record. Its fully openworked dial reveals the BVL 388, which combines both chronograph and tourbillon functions, with the latter positioned at 6 o’clock.
The thinnest perpetual calendar watch ever made. Despite its mechanical complexity, the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar has a case thickness of just 5.8 mm. The BVL 305 caliber, at only 2.75 mm thick, pushed Bulgari’s engineers in Le Sentier to invent new technical solutions—such as a micro-rotor and ultra-compact architecture for the 408 components—without reducing their individual dimensions.
The world’s thinnest mechanical watch, with a total thickness of just 1.8 mm. Achieving such unprecedented slimness required a complete rethinking of construction: the caseback itself functions as the mainplate, onto which the 170 components of the BVL 180 caliber are mounted. The bracelet’s links also had to be entirely redesigned to match the 1.8 mm thickness. Eight patents were filed for this extraordinary watch. The Octo Finissimo Ultra features a QR code engraved on the barrel gear, offering the owner a journey into the watch’s design and story.
The thinnest automatic watch in the world, and also COSC-certified as a chronometer, measuring just 1.7 mm thick—thinner than a coin. Created in collaboration with Concepto, a high-end Swiss movement manufacturer based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the watch’s mainplate is made from tungsten carbide: an ultra-dense, hard, and durable material. Even the titanium bracelet is a mechanical feat on its own, measuring only 1.5 mm thick.
And now we arrive at today’s record: the thinnest tourbillon of all time, with a total thickness of just 1.85 mm! To achieve this incredible milestone, Bulgari’s research and development teams invented new techniques and processes, resulting in eight patents. These include innovations such as the exposed differential, the integration design of the middle caseband and mainplate, a bi-material caseback, a novel crystal mounting system, a new barrel construction, the oscillator unit, a modular architecture, and a uniquely designed bracelet.
