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IWC Schaffhausen is a Swiss watchmaker with a remarkably consistent path. At least, that’s the impression I’ve gathered over the past 20 to 25 years of following the brand, studying the timepieces it produces, the innovative materials it pioneers, the cutting-edge technology it develops, and the philosophy that runs through it all. Every year, at Geneva’s grand celebration of fine watchmaking — Watches & Wonders, or previously the SIHH — IWC makes a point of focusing on just one of its six modern collections. Ingenieur, Aquatimer, and Pilot take their inspiration from earth, sea, and sky, while the other three — Portugieser, Portofino και Da Vinci — are all about timeless elegance, for both men and women. That may be a somewhat simplified view of a watchmaking house founded in 1868 — more than a century and a half ago — but it’s enough to explain why this year’s spotlight belongs to the Ingenieur collection.
It all began in the 1950s, when IWC launched the very first Ingenieur, its inaugural antimagnetic wristwatch designed for everyday wear. That timepiece was a technical milestone, as even its name suggests—“Ingenieur” means “Engineer” in both German and French. It was created specifically for professionals whose work brought them into contact with powerful magnetic fields—engineers, technicians, chemists, pilots, and doctors. IWC tackled the magnetism challenge by encasing the movement inside a soft-iron inner case, essentially forming a miniature Faraday cage: a shield that prevented magnetic fields from interfering with the movement’s delicate components, thereby preserving timekeeping accuracy. Interestingly, this wasn’t new tech—just a few years earlier, IWC had developed the same solution for its iconic Pilot’s Watch Mark 11.
The first Ingenieur, reference 666, hit the market in 1955. A second-generation model followed in 1967, this time redesigned by an external designer—a certain Gérald Genta. Thanks to his unmatched talent, Genta gave the Ingenieur its unmistakable aesthetic. His first design for the line debuted in 1976 as the Ingenieur SL, IWC’s top-tier steel luxury sports watch. It was bold and disruptive: a screwed-in bezel with five visible bolts, a textured dial with a unique embossed pattern, and an integrated bracelet with H-shaped links. It was a watch well ahead of its time. Today, that historic Genta-designed model ranks among the most sought-after IWC watches by collectors.
The Ingenieur made its grand comeback in 2023, with a range of automatic 40mm models featuring beautifully textured geometric dials. And this year, the collection grows with several new references in a variety of sizes and materials—including one with a high complication. Let’s take a closer look.
As you might have guessed, the “35” refers to the case diameter: 35 millimetres. That’s quite a compact size, primarily aimed at women. But with the current trend of men wearing smaller watches, that line is increasingly blurred—and a 35mm piece today is easily a unisex choice.
Three Ingenieur Automatic 35 models were unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2025: one in 18-carat 5N rose gold with a matching rose gold-toned dial, and two in stainless steel with either a black or silver-plated dial.
Prices: €11,600 (steel) and €42,900 (gold)
This year, IWC introduced a precious take on the Ingenieur Automatic 40. It features a full 18-carat 5N rose gold case and bracelet paired with a striking black dial adorned with a geometric embossed texture.
Around the back, a sapphire crystal case back offers a view of the IWC-manufactured calibre 32111, a self-winding movement with an impressive 120-hour power reserve—that’s five full days of autonomy.
Price: €52,600
In addition to the gold version, the show also brought us a special green-dial edition of the Ingenieur Automatic 40. This limited edition of 1,000 pieces is inspired by the watch worn by Sonny Hayes, the main character in Apple Original Films’ highly anticipated F1 movie.
Played by Brad Pitt, the veteran driver sports a custom version of the Ingenieur SL Reference 1832 with a bold green textured dial and rose gold accents. Inside ticks the same calibre 32111, ensuring consistency across the line.
Price: €14,500
This marks the first time the Ingenieur is offered in a full ceramic case. It’s a faithful reinterpretation of Gérald Genta’s original integrated design, reimagined here with a modern twist: a cutting-edge black ceramic multi-part case.
The level of detail in the finishing is astonishing, with a meticulous interplay of satin-brushed, sandblasted, and polished surfaces. Inside is IWC’s 82110 automatic movement, built in-house, featuring the efficient Pellaton winding system with ceramic components and a 60-hour power reserve. You can admire its intricate beauty through the tinted sapphire case back.
Price: €22,100
Last but not least: the most technically complex member of the new lineup. This is IWC’s first stainless-steel model to combine the iconic Genta-inspired design with Kurt Klaus’s renowned perpetual calendar module. The 41mm case, bezel, and bracelet are expertly finished with a combination of satin-brushed and polished surfaces.
On the deep blue dial, adorned with the distinctive “Grid” pattern, three subdials display the date, day, month, and moon phase. Rhodium-plated hands and hour markers with Super-LumiNova® ensure excellent legibility even in the dark. Powering the watch is IWC’s in-house calibre 82600, equipped with a Pellaton winding system and ceramic parts. The beautifully finished movement can be admired through the sapphire exhibition case back.
Price: €41,900
