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I remember vividly the first time I saw the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris models—it was back in 2018 at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, now known as Watches & Wonders. The collection initially included time-only and chronograph models, followed by a world timer. In 2023, two stunning chronographs appeared with deep blue and warm grey lacquer dials. This year, the lineup expands again with a model that I personally find irresistible: the Ocean Grey edition.
In my opinion, the Polaris models are among the most refined and beautifully executed watches one can find today. For this article, it only makes sense to begin with the dial, as it’s undoubtedly the standout element of the entire collection—and especially of this new chronograph. Once again, the designers and artisans at Jaeger-LeCoultre have truly outdone themselves. The meticulous design elements, the interplay of textures, the alternating surface finishes, and the multiple layers all come together to create a result that is nothing short of flawless. Every detail seems carefully considered and perfectly integrated into the whole.
Its lacquered surfaces are truly state-of-the-art. Two peripheral rings define the architecture of the dial—an outer black ring featuring the tachymeter scale and an inner ring housing the oversized applied hour markers. At the center sits a radiant sunburst disc where the two black chronograph counters are symmetrically placed. Both the central disc and the hour ring have a gradient effect, with the lacquer transitioning from light to dark, adding real depth and a strong three-dimensional feel to the dial. It’s like gazing at the ocean from above on a cloudy day.
It’s worth pausing here to acknowledge the know-how and craftsmanship required to achieve such an immaculate result. The lacquering process is painstaking and time-consuming, with each layer applied entirely by hand. The skilled artisan begins with a clear varnish base, followed by a colored layer, and then no fewer than 35 coats of semi-transparent lacquer are built up to give the dial depth and richness. Finally, every other surface is meticulously polished until it gleams like a mirror.
You’ll probably agree with me: the aesthetics of this watch are on another level. But even from a usability standpoint, the Polaris Chronograph’s dial stands out for its superb legibility. The skeletonized hands and large markers are all filled with luminous material, ensuring visibility in the dark.
As I mentioned earlier, the central disc holds two perfectly symmetrical subdials: at 3 o’clock is the 30-minute chronograph counter, and at 9 o’clock run smoothly the small seconds. A few discreet orange accents inject just the right amount of energy into the overall composition.
The stainless steel case of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Ocean Grey measures 42mm in diameter, just like its chronograph predecessors in the collection. It features a flawless combination of polished and satin-brushed surfaces and proudly showcases all the signature design traits of the Polaris family: a bold, compact architecture, pronounced curved lugs, a slim bezel, and a box-shaped crystal that enhances its vintage charm. It’s not just a watch designed for urban wear—its build quality and technical specifications make it more than capable of handling more demanding environments, including underwater adventures, thanks to its water resistance of up to 100 meters.
Through the exhibition caseback, the automatic in-house Calibre 761 is visible. Beating at 4 Hz, it’s a fully integrated chronograph movement with column wheel and vertical clutch, offering a robust 65-hour power reserve from its twin barrels.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Ocean Grey is delivered with two easily interchangeable straps: a black rubber strap with “Clous de Paris” motif and a grey-blue canvas strap that echoes the dial’s tones.
Price: €16,700
CASE Stainless steel, Ø42 mm, thickness: 13.39 mm, open back | DIAL Ocean grey lacquer dial, two black chronograph sub-dials, skeleton hands, luminescent-coated indexes and hands |
MOVEMENT Automatic, manufacture Calibre 761, 65-hour power reserve | FUNCTIONS / COMPLICATIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, tachymeter scale |
WATER RESISTANCE 100 metres | BRACELET / STRAP Two interchangeable straps: black rubber and blue-grey canvas fabric, folding buckle |
