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Fanny Zafraka-Themelidis
In 2015, the North Flag marked one of the most important launches in Tudor’s modern history. It was the brand’s first watch to be equipped with a mechanical movement developed and manufactured in-house. Yet despite its technical significance and distinctive aesthetics, it never achieved the commercial success of the Black Bay and was eventually discontinued in 2021. Its absence from the market, however, appears to have worked in its favour. In the years that followed, the North Flag acquired cult status, as collectors began to appreciate the very elements that set it apart: its angular case, integrated bracelet, bold yellow details and aesthetic independence from the dominant Black Bay family.
Tudor now brings the model back under the name Northflag, written as a single word, and introduces several substantial changes. The new generation is not a faithful reproduction of the 2015 watch. It naturally retains its fundamental identity, but brings it into the era of modern GMT watches and comprehensive high-precision certification.
The story behind the name is linked to the British North Greenland Expedition, the scientific mission that began in 1952. Its members lived and worked for two years in the extreme conditions of the frozen North Greenland ice sheet, equipped with Tudor Oyster Prince watches. The expedition became one of the most important real-world endurance tests for the brand’s watches. Their performance was systematically monitored and documented, strengthening Tudor’s reputation as a maker of robust and reliable tool watches.
The new GMT function takes on particular significance within this historical context. The additional 24-hour display is useful not only for tracking a second time zone, but also serves another purpose. In regions close to the poles, where the sun can remain above or below the horizon for months, it enables the wearer to determine immediately whether the indicated time corresponds to day or night.
The watch’s design references the 1973 Tudor Ranger II, from which it inherits its integrated bracelet, dynamic case lines and distinctive hand shapes. The stainless-steel case measures 40mm in diameter and 12.7mm thick, and is water-resistant to 100 metres. Its surfaces are predominantly satin-brushed, with polished bevels on the lugs and bezel accentuating its geometry without compromising its robust, functional character. The fixed steel bezel and screw-down crown combine satin-brushed and polished finishes, while sapphire crystals protect both the dial and the movement through the caseback.
The black dial is distinguished by large Arabic numerals at 6 and 12 o’clock, together with applied hour markers made from monobloc luminous ceramic. This construction creates clean, uniform surfaces and powerful luminescence, thanks to Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova.
The 24-hour scale appears on an inner flange angled at 45 degrees. The yellow tip of the arrow-shaped GMT hand provides the necessary colour contrast and offers a clear nod to the original North Flag, where yellow was used for the power-reserve indicator. This vivid colour has become something of a Tudor favourite, as the brand recently demonstrated with the bright yellow Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”, as well as the Black Bay Pro with its yellow GMT hand.
The date remains at 3 o’clock, while the handset combines a variety of geometric forms. Both the hour and GMT hands are arrow-shaped, the minute hand takes the form of a straight baton, and the seconds hand features a small rectangular detail near its tip.
A defining element of the Northflag remains its integrated bracelet. The new two-link construction was designed specifically to continue the visual lines of the case. It is made from 316L stainless steel, with satin-brushed surfaces and subtly polished bevels. The clasp is now equipped with Tudor’s T-fit rapid-adjustment system. Without the need for tools, the wearer can adjust the bracelet to five different positions across a total range of 8mm. Ceramic ball bearings inside the clasp ensure smooth operation and a secure closure.
Like the original North Flag, the new model features an exhibition caseback. A slightly domed sapphire crystal reveals the new automatic Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U. The movement does not rely on an additional module for its GMT function. Instead, the second-time-zone display is integrated directly into its architecture, a solution that reduces complexity and is considered a significant advantage by mechanical-watch purists.
This is a “true” or “flyer” GMT: the local hour hand can be adjusted independently in one-hour increments without stopping the watch or affecting the minute and seconds hands. The date changes in conjunction with the local hour hand, making it easier to reset the watch upon arrival in a different time zone.
The movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz, or 28,800 vibrations per hour, and provides a power reserve of 65 hours. It features a variable-inertia balance wheel secured by a traversing bridge anchored at two points, as well as a silicon balance spring.
The MT5652-U is certified by both COSC and METAS. To qualify as a Master Chronometer, the fully assembled watch—and not merely the movement—is tested for precision, power reserve, water resistance and resistance to magnetic fields.
Its daily variation is restricted to between 0 and +5 seconds, while the watch continues to function correctly after exposure to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Testing is conducted in six different positions, at two temperatures and at two levels of power reserve.
Another practical advantage of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U is its “weekend-proof” autonomy. Its METAS-certified 65-hour power reserve means the watch can be set aside on Friday evening and worn again on Monday morning without requiring any additional winding.
The original North Flag appeared at a time when the market had not yet fully embraced sports watches with integrated bracelets. Its bold design also stood at some distance from the neo-vintage aesthetic that established Tudor in the contemporary market. Eleven years later, the landscape has changed significantly. Integrated-bracelet watches have made a powerful comeback, GMT functions rank among the most popular practical complications, and collectors appear more willing to seek out models with a distinctive identity.
Tudor, however, has not simply revived a watch that gained collector interest after its discontinuation. The brand has removed the power-reserve indicator, added the more useful GMT function, upgraded the movement with Master Chronometer certification and substantially improved both the bracelet and the case finishing. In effect, Tudor is proposing something fresh, reliable and exceptionally wearable for both men and women. In doing so, the brand demonstrates that its collection is not limited to the Black Bay, but also includes other sports watches with a strong personality of their own.
The return of the Northflag confirms the strategy that had already emerged through Tudor’s new models at Watches & Wonders 2026: a growing number of Manufacture movements, broader use of METAS Master Chronometer certification, improved ergonomics and a more mature design identity.
The new Tudor Northflag (ref. 9140G1A0U) comes with a transferable five-year guarantee, with no registration or mandatory periodic maintenance checks required. Price: €5,230.
