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Released almost at the same time – the first in June, the second in July – both won me over instantly. When I started thinking about which one I’d actually buy, the dilemma quickly became a serious one. Of course, the choice of any watch is purely subjective, but below you’ll find a detailed side-by-side comparison of the two models to help you decide which one suits your personality best. In this article, we’ll focus on two different approaches to vintage-inspired dive watches. The TUDOR Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue and the RADO Captain Cook 39 may seem to share a lot at first glance, since they occupy the same space in the market, but they speak entirely different design languages, something you’ll discover very soon.
The Tudor Black Bay 54 is the definition of understated elegance, inspired by Tudor’s very first dive watch, the Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922 from 1954. Its new “Lagoon Blue” tone brings a fresh twist to what is otherwise a robust tool watch. Its case has a diameter of 37 mm, is slim in profile, alternates between satin-brushed and polished surfaces, and is water-resistant to 20 bar, or 200 metres.
While some men might find it on the smaller side, the truth is that smaller case sizes are making a strong comeback, and this model is bound to find fans among both men and women.
The RADO Captain Cook 39 is slightly larger, but features pronounced curves and retro references that recall the original 1962 release. Its case has a distinctive concave shape with a protruding domed crystal and a rotating ceramic bezel. The 39 mm size is perfectly versatile, fitting wrists of all sizes.
It’s worth noting that 39 mm is a brand-new size for the Rado Captain Cook collection, which until now offered steel models in 37 and 42 mm. The Captain Cook 39 is water-resistant to 300 metres, in full compliance with ISO dive watch standards.
The Lagoon Blue shade alone is enough reason to fall for the Tudor Black Bay 54. It’s a unique light-blue tone that shifts between grey, sky blue, and turquoise depending on how the light hits it. The minimalist round and rectangular hour markers seem to float over the sand-textured background, as do the hands – with the snowflake hour hand being a hallmark of the Black Bay family. All are coated with Super-LumiNova for perfect readability in the darkness of the deep. Apart from its distinctive dial colour, this is a watch with a distinctly utilitarian character and clean, minimalist design. The designers rightly avoided adding a date window.
The RADO Captain Cook 39, on the other hand, leans more heavily into retro character. From the vintage-style font and Rado logo to the famous rotating anchor at the top of the domed dial, its whole aesthetic radiates old-school charm. Here, the blue is much lighter on the ceramic bezel, while the dial itself is gradient – starting with light blue at the edges and fading to almost white in the centre. The hour markers are sharper, shaped like trapezoids and rectangles, while a date display with red numerals sits at 3 o’clock. And since this is a proper dive watch, the large hands and indices are filled with luminous Super-LumiNova.
Inside the Tudor Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue beats the Calibre MT5400, an in-house automatic movement certified as a chronometer by COSC. It features a silicon balance spring for anti-magnetic resistance and delivers a power reserve of 70 hours. It’s stable, precise, and built to withstand tough use under high-pressure conditions, making it ideal for daily wear without frequent servicing.
The Rado Captain Cook 39 is powered by the Calibre R763, an automatic movement based on the renowned Powermatic 80, offering 80 hours of power reserve and anti-magnetic protection thanks to its Nivachron balance spring. While it’s not manufactured in-house by Rado, it’s a tried-and-tested Swatch Group calibre that is highly reliable.
The Tudor Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue comes on a five-link stainless steel bracelet with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, equipped with Tudor’s T-fit clasp for on-the-fly adjustment and maximum comfort. Its overall presence leans more towards a “tool watch” aesthetic.
The Rado Captain Cook 39 is paired with a “beads-of-rice” bracelet, whose tiny polished central links create a flowing, comfortable feel on the wrist while enhancing the watch’s vintage elegance.
The Tudor Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue retails for €4.380. It’s clearly a premium product, with an in-house movement and the weight of the Tudor name behind it.
The RADO Captain Cook 39 comes in at €2.650. It delivers outstanding value for money without lacking in technical capability or refined design.
If we had to sum up the two in one sentence, we’d say the Tudor is more of a “tool” while the Rado is more of a “jewel.” The Tudor Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue is an excellent choice for those who want a serious, everyday watch with history, a manufacture movement, and understated style. The RADO Captain Cook 39 39 is a great pick for those who prefer a watch with retro charm, a lighter, more playful design, and exceptional value for money.
Both watches are outstanding. They are true dive models, yet perfectly suited for all-day wear in everyday life, whether in or out of the water. Ultimately, the decision is, of course, a matter of personal taste. What truly matters is which one “speaks” to you the most when it’s on your wrist.
TUDOR Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue | RADO Captain Cook 39 | |
Case: | Stainless steel | Stainless steel |
Diameter: | 37 mm | 39 χιλιοστά |
Thickness: | 11,2 mm | 12 mm |
Crown: | Screw-down | Screw-down |
Bezel: | Diving, steel, with 60-minute scale | Diving, with light blue ceramic insert and 60-minute scale |
Dial: | “Lagoon Blue” with sand texture, indexes and hands filled with Super-LumiNova® | Light blue degradé, indexes and hands filled with Super-LumiNova® |
Movement: | Automatic, Manufacture Calibre MT5400, COSC chronometer certified | Automatic, Calibre R763, COSC chronometer certified |
Power reserve: | 70 hours | 80 hours |
Functions: | Hours, minutes, seconds. | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
Water resistance: | 200 metres | 300 metres |
Bracelet: | Stainless steel, Tudor “T-fit” clasp | Stainless steel, triple folding clasp |
Price: | €4,380 | €2,650 |
